GQ Magazine, April 14th 2011, by Alan Richman
The sommelier at New York’s Le Bernardin, Aldo Sohm, poured a glass of red without letting me see the bottle—the classic blind-tasting game. Exhibiting my customary skill, I immediately misidentified it as a elderly Bordeaux. It turned out to be a 1939 Rioja, left over from a highbrow wine-tasting that had just been held at the restaurant. Nevertheless, I quickly forgave myself, because the wine had undoubtedly been made by Spanish winemakers working in the style of Bordeaux winemakers. My second error, according to Sohm, was to categorize the wine as a “light red.” This time I put up a fight.